Made To Order

In India, customised clothing is not a luxury but a way of life; women and men develop long-standing affiliations with their tailors that continue for generations. Till the early ’90s, made-to-measure outfits were essential parts of an Indian household, and I still remember my mother and aunts shopping together for fabric to give to their masterjis to transform into sari blouses or salwar-kameezes. In a sewing establishment, the moniker “masterji” is an abbreviation of the term “master cutter” — the person who is responsible for cutting the fabric, which is considered a crucial step in bespoke garment construction. This customary way of addressing the local tailor emphasises the importance of his job within the social ecosystem.

Speaking from experience, I can say that dressmaking is not an easy feat. It takes hours to learn how to sew in a straight line and years to acquire the nuances of the trade. It can also take forever to find a good masterji, who understands you and your body. When I was in college studying fashion design, I went through a long process of trial and error before I finally discovered one tailor who could comprehend my vision, and I go back to him every time I want to create a new ensemble. There’s something about tailored clothing; the right fit, the hand-picked fabric and the precise cut make it more covetable than what I may buy off-the-rack.

With the influx of fast fashion and ready-to-wear brands in the mid-’90s, custom-made clothing took a backseat as Indians flocked to purchase clothes with standard measurements and cheaper price points. Eventually, made-to-order outfits were reserved for the wedding wear market, designers’ showrooms and a niche group of people who still appreciated the art of tailor-made clothes. Despite the setback, a few enterprises have continued their business of custom-fitted clothing and today their legacy is peerless, built on a love of dressmaking. Verve visits a sexagenarian boutique-owner who can conduct business in more than five languages; a woman who has been designing white wedding gowns for three decades; a masterji in his forties who hails from a family of tailors and a dressmaker who creates bespoke lace saris. For each of them, tailoring is more than just taking measurements and putting together an exceptional outfit — it’s an art form that they nurture and, in return, it teaches them something new every day.

At the links below read our interviews with the four Mumbai-based tailors and boutiques.

Michele Boutique 
Noreen’s Bridal Studio 
Voli Mohamed Eliyas Tailor 
Gulshan Kolah