| 13 MAY 2022

Hot Pants

Recognising the salwar’s utility beyond traditional wear, Verve envisions different interpretations of the garment on interdisciplinary artist and creative director Doyel Joshi, offering a future-looking maximalist mood board to revive its use for fashion’s new generation.

The way that we think about clothing has changed; we are more oriented towards individuality now, and what feels true is what goes! And so, I had to discover the different personalities in each of the garments while bringing them together for the looks.”

-Akanksha Pandey, Senior Fashion Editor, Verve

Shirt, from Naushad Ali; structured dress, by Abhishek Kumar; skirt, from Tui Tui; churidar salwar, from Rajesh Pratap Singh, hair clips, from Amrapali Jewels; haath phool, from Olio; shoes, socks, both stylist’s own.

I used to think that the salwar was a set until I made an actual pattern for the garment. I don’t particularly like the salwar. I prefer a cleaner look, but I am certainly open to seeing both women and men in more comfortable trousers for day-to-day wear.”

-Abhishek Kumar, designer

Shirt, from Leh; jacket, from Chola; salwar pants, from Naushad Ali; belt (worn around the neck), by Payal Khandwala; shoes, from Vaishali S.

I keep on shouting that this is the decade of India. The world is looking desperately for the forgotten world of slow fashion with its detailed and skilled workmanship, sustainability and social impact, innovation, comfort, design: these are all attributes at which India can be number one, and the salwar itself should be at the forefront of it.”

-Vaishali S, designer

Mesh top, from NorBlack NorWhite; dress (worn inside), from Button Masala; salwar, from Abraham & Thakore, shoes, from Fendi; socks, stylist’s own.

“It mimics the trials and triumphs of each generation’s quest for freedom. While the salwar enabled movement for women, it was far from the inner liberation that the pantsuit gave to women in the West. The beauty, for me, has been our ability to navigate our past and heritage while being in full resonance with the present experience of life.”

-Doyel Joshi, interdisciplinary artist and creative director

Top, from Payal Khandwala; skirt from Vaishali S; draped salwar from Payal Pratap; belt, from Chola; shoes, from Fendi; socks, stylist’s own.

It’s all about delving into your cultural heritage and embracing elements that are relevant in a modern context. The salwar is really a version of the baggy comfortable trouser; twisting it slightly in terms of functionality, volume and cut can result in a cool avatar that resonates with today’s youth.”

-Payal Pratap, designer

Top (worn inside), from Ōshadi; sheer kurta (worn inside), from Rajesh Pratap Singh; dress, from NorBlack NorWhite; waistcoat, from Āroka; salwar, from Abraham & Thakore; brooch, from Amrapali Jewels; socks, stylist’s own.

Top, from Ōshadi; white pants (worn inside), from Lovebirds; black structured salwar from Rajesh Pratap Singh; sweatshirt (worn around the waist), from Chola; mesh bodysuit, stylist’s own.

Top, from Leh; dress (wrapped around the waist), from Āroka; salwar from Abraham & Thakore; structured drape (worn around the torso), by Abhishek Kumar.

I don’t think that young people will give up their blue jeans for the salwar. But there is always room for innovation and cultural shifts.”

-Abhishek Kumar, designer